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Pissouri Guide Chypre

The only really sizeable coastal settlement between Episkopi village and the pafos border is PISSOURI, draped appealingly over a ridge a bit south of the highway, though disfigured by too many new buildings to be really attractive close up. Owing to relative calm and proximity to the Episkopi Sovereign Base, it's a favourite with service families, and has numerous places to stay and eat. Among these, the Victoria Hotel, just off the main square, is mid-1990s-built, reasonably priced and has a pleasant snack bar attached. Hill view; studio 8, 2-bedroom apartments) at the northwestern edge of the village lives up to its name, and has an excellent restaurant (closed Mon) with dishes ranging from Cypriot to gourmet international. Occupying a converted two-century-old farmhouse, the long-established Bunch of Grapes Inn passed into Cypriot management in 2002, with a salutary effect on the food in the courtyard restaurant.

Pissouri's beach, 3km below the village along a good but twisty road, is a lot longer (nearly 1km) than it appears from above, well protected and sandy, though somewhat blighted by jet-skis in peak season. (There is quieter and more commendable windsurfer rental through Surfcyprus, www .surfcyprus.com.) You could do worse than base yourself here, though like the upper village the place has really taken off since the mid-1990s, with vast numbers of villa developments and hotel-apartments springing up along the paved road in. If you really want to push the boat out, go for the well-run Columbia Pissouri Beach, virtually on the sand. This comprises a conventional three-star hotel with a main wing and garden suites (offering more like four-star amenities), and a mock- traditional five-star bungalow complex of"resort suites", about which nary a peep of complaint has been heard. Four or five bars and a like number of restaurants surround the central beachfront car park; favourites include the Vine Leaf, with floor shows on summer Fridays and a log fire in winter; the Monte Beach at the western end of the strand, with inexpensive lunches including a salad bar; and friendly Pepis, with high standards and vegetarian options.