Moving between North and South Cyprus

Since April 23, 2003, when the Turkish Cypriot authorities opened various barred roads along the Green and Attila Unes with-out any notice, it has become possible for most Individuals to cross between the two sectors of Cyprus with little formality. All you need are a valid passport and Of you're bringing your own car) a certain amount of cash In hand to pay for supplementary Insurance.

At first the authorities on both sides attempted to enforce "Cinderella" rules by which people had to retum to "their" side by midnight -but this was quickly dropped In the face of massive civil disobedience, and the realization that such strictures were pretty much unenforceable (though in theory Greek Cypriots are still limited to five days at a time In the North). It Is now commonplace for Greek Cypriots to take weekend breaks in the North, and (to a lesser extent, owing to economic realities) Turkish Cypriots to stay over in the South.

Although the Republic of Cyprus continues to describe Ercan airport, Kyrenla harbour and Famagusta harbour as "Illegal ports of entry", under EU rules there is In fact nothing they can (or will) do to EU nationals who land in the North and then head to the South -certaln on foot or by taxi; driving one's own foreign-registered car could prove trickier, and entry in a hire car with northern plates Is not (yet) allowed, though ordinary northern Cypriot cars are allowed South. Non-EU citizens attempting the same could be given a hard time, up to and including denial of entry or deportation depending on where they are detected, but we've yet to hear of any instances of this. With the new freedom of movement, many people fly Into Lamaca, pay a round-trip taxi fare to Kyrenla or Famagusta, then fly out again at the conclusion of their holiday In the North; they reckon this worth it for the greater choice of flights and reduced flying time, though In fact they save little money once  the taxi fare Is figured In. Conversely, travel agents In the North openly sell tickets out of Larnaca to all comers. At time of writing there are four legal crossing points between the North and South: Ledra Palace (pedestrians only). Ayios Dhometios, Pyla/Beyarmudu and the Four-Mile Crossing through SBA territory between Famagusta and Xylotymvou.

Eight more have been proposed. at least some of which are likely to open during the lifetime of this edition. despite wrangling between North and South over details. From west to east. they are: Pakhyammos-Kato Pyrgos direct via the Kokkina enclave coast road. Kato Pyrgos-Gemikonagi (Karavostasi). Astromeritis-Guzelyurt (Morfou), Leoforos Athinas--Ayios Kassianos in Nicosia. Ledra Street-Girne Caddesi (pedestrians only), again in Nicosia. Leoforos Kantaras-Mfa Milia in the northeast of Nicosia, Dhali Akincilar (Louroujina). and Dherinia-Famagusta.

Although Turkey has yet to recognize the Republic of Cyprus, since May 2003, Republic of Cyprus passport holders have been allowed to travel there provided they first get a visa at the Turkish embassy in north Nicosia. There's the rather notorious case of a Greek-Cypriot man who went to istanbul on a weekend break, flying on KTHY out of Ercan. He was prosecuted by his own authorities for using an "illegal" airport upon his return; a conviction-was duly obtained, and a fine imposed, but never enforced as the gentleman in question threatened recourse to the EU-Court of Human Rights in Strasbourg, where he'd surely win his case -and compensation. Since then other EU nationals have imitated him.